Being a non-believer, I tend to tread lightly when discussing religious garments, in worries of offending anyone due to my lack of knowledge on the topic. However, it saddens me that nowadays, wearing garments and clothing that clearly identify one’s religion attracts a disproportionate backlash. Out of the variety of religious garments that adorn the bodies of men and women, hijabs, burkas, and abayas often seem to be of most controversy.
This type of apparel is usually not what comes to mind when western high fashion is of interest, despite their popularity. Western designers who create the most luxurious and elegant collections should cater to those from opposite ends of the world.
Not only would this diversify the fashion industry, but it would be beneficial for business as well. It’s no secret that Muslim women have been some of the most valuable customers to designer labels, spending obscene amounts of money on high-fashion apparel. Fortune magazine reported that in 2013, Muslims spent around $266 billion solely on attire, exceeding Japan and Italy combined. They predicted that the figure would amount to $484 billion by 2019.
There are some examples of religious coverings being incorporated into high fashion. Last year, Dolce and Gabbana used inclusiveness to their benefit, revealing a line of hijabs and abayas in a successful attempt to cater to the Muslim market. To Muslim women with a taste for high fashion, this line evoked excitement as it maintained the style of every other Dolce and Gabbana collection, while preserving modesty. And Muslim designer Anniesa Hasibuan made history when she adorned every model with a unique, luxury made hijab at New York Fashion Week. Not only was the newcomer the first Indonesian designer to be invited to the event, but was also the first to present a collection of hijabs on the runway. Her show was a huge leap forward in what is being known as the modesty movement of fashion.
However, as much as these designers have received praise for their diversity and inclusion, they have also received a great amount of criticism. Conservative Muslim groups claim that the hijabs and abayas designed by fashion designers are too modernized, and as a result are not Islamic enough. Dr. Eva Nisa, professor of Islamic studies at Victoria University, stated the essence of Muslim dressing is to preserve modesty and decency. She believes that Muslim women must dress in a way that does not attract any attention from men. Therefore Muslim fashion designers are not always considered in a positive light, as they are seen as going against a kind of religious doctrine.
Although it is understandable as to why some may criticize high-end Islamic fashion, I do not believe that the reason holds a candle to bringing such diversity to the fashion industry. Hijabs and abayas are not only religious symbols, but also a part of many Muslim women’s identity. Not only have these collections struck Muslim women, but also non-believers, and those of different faith.
In light of recent events, many women have voiced their fear of wearing their hijabs out in public. It is no secret that dozens of women have been, and continue to be, harassed for wearing the traditional Muslim headscarf. Bringing these garments into the fashion industry may change the perspectives of many, from believing that they are tools of oppression into believing that they are symbols of modesty, expression and solidarity. As these designer garments are introduced into the mainstream fashion, they may bring a sense of comfort and confidence to Muslim women. The inclusion of this Islamic apparel in high fashion promotes the acceptance of Muslim women in Western society.