The most recent episode of CBC’s Marketplace—the investigative program on businesses and consumer advocacy—delved into the vast array of ‘skin lightening’ creams sold in Canada, focusing on brands such as So Lovely.
CBC’s findings uncovered some of them contain dangerous amounts of harmful ingredients such as mercury, hydroquinone, and steroids. Mercury and hydroquinone, in particular, are possible carcinogens and can cause serious skin issues.
Health Canada only allows up to two per cent of hydroquinone in skin care products for spot treatment. Mercury can contribute to a disruption in the production of melanin, scarring, rashes and in serious cases, cause kidney damage.
It is evident skin lightening products are harmful, yet the skin lightening industry continues to grow and is expected to be worth more than $31 billion US by 2024, according to the CBC’s article. Why is there a demand for these products?
The weight of this question rests on the shoulders of oppressive systems such as those of colourism, colonialism, and the patriarchy.
Unpacking all of these concepts in detail is out of the scope of this op-ed. But the gist is that in a lot of communities, those with lighter skin are seen as more worthy than those with darker skin.
Products containing these ingredients are not authorized for sale in Canada unless prescribed by a doctor. However, ‘fairness’ creams are widely available and easily accessible in beauty supply stores which mainly target African, Asian and Caribbean communities.
The origins of the prejudice rooted in these products can be traced back to slavery and European colonization of several parts of the world, where slaves with lighter skin were allowed to work inside while those with darker skin had to work in the glaring sun.
Or, how the white skin of the wives of British generals in colonial India was tied to wealth, luxury, and higher social status.
Being Indian, I know that even today, a lot of stress is placed on the colour of one’s skin. Women’s prospects for an arranged marriage also depend on being fair-skinned. Some matrimonial ads specifically state they are only looking for fair women.
Growing up, I went to an all girls Indian school. I recall my classmates fretting every time they had spent too long outside playing games and the sun had painted their skin a deeper shade of brown.
Solutions to ‘whiten’ and ‘brighten’ their dark skin were discussed as normally as weekend plans. Somehow, the fear of being brown, of being dark-skinned, and of not being white was a common denominator for all of us.
Although I have noticed a change in people of colour’s feelings about their skin colour, and there has been an overall shift in the conversation regarding skin whitening in our communities, the problem still persists.
We are nowhere close to dismantling colourism entirely. It is simple, really. If your dark skin is apparently the sole barrier to a good life with the “perfect” husband and an esteemed social standing, skin lightening creams appear to be the most logical solution.
So when it comes to regulation, the truth remains that as long as there is demand for these products, they will be sold. Legality is not of much concern here. When there is a profit to be made, a product will always fill that gap.
In this case, companies are capitalizing on our insecurities and on discriminatory systems. The only way we can stop the sale of these products and the numerous health risks they pose is to target the demand itself and the systems which uphold it. In the end, fair may not always be “so lovely.”
File photo.
