It’s formal season! Now is the time to put on a suit, share a cocktail and a nice meal, but most of all, look sharp.
Whether you’re going to a big black tie bash or you want to throw on a spiffy outfit before a nice candlelit dinner, here’s what you need to know about dressing your best this winter.
Gray suits are more versatile than black
That’s Cary Grant with a two-button gray flannel suit in North by Northwest. Notice how the width of the lapels matches the width of the tie. It’s all in the details, boys.
Most guys grab a black suit when they head out to a nice dinner or function. Stop. Gray suits offer more bang for your buck. You can wear them to any nighttime event, and you can rock the suit in the daytime without looking like a Secret Service agent.
Gray also comes in a variety of fabrics and patterns. Houndstooth is most common, but flannel and herringbone are enjoying renaissances. Windowpane and Prince of Wales patterned suits are trendy for those who like to dress bold but not too bold.
Your tie should not be a conversation piece
Don Draper’s ties draw attention to him, without drawing attention to the tie itself.
When I was a kid, my dad had all kinds of novelty ties. He had one from the Sydney 2000 Olympics, a couple with Santa’s face, and maybe one or two from a beer company. They were fun, but he never wore them to the office or to a formal event. Take that advice.
The best ties go with your outfit but stand out from your shirt. You want people to look at your face, not the dumb tie that stopped being funny 15 minutes into the party.
Oh, and don’t match your tie to your date’s outfit. It’s not prom. Match what they’re wearing by Googling the colour wheel and looking at which tone is opposite her outfit.
Give a shirt
Shirts are simple, right? Yes! All you have to check is the collar size, sleeve length, and style.
Notice how much cuff pokes out of Steve McQueen’s jackets. That’s what you want.
Stick two fingers between your collar and neck. Does it feel like you can’t breathe? The shirt is t0o small. If you can’t button the top button, your collar will sit flat against your body and ruin the put-together look of a shirt and tie.
You can check the size of your collar by looking at the first number on the size tag inside the shirt. 15 ½ is the standard size, but most manufacturers produce a range of circumferences.
As for collar styles, your best choice is a traditional point collar. It looks good with any tie knot and helps make your face appear thinner. Spread collar shirts are back in vogue, but are harder to pull off.
Sleeves should stick out about a half-inch from your jacket sleeve. If this doesn’t happen, check to see if the sleeve ends at your wrist bone. If it does, get your sleeves shortened. If your sleeves stop earlier than that, you need a new shirt.
The two-button, three-button battle
Three button suits were popular in the 1990s and early 2000s, which is why you still see them around.
Two button suits are the most versatile and in style. Since the dawn of the traditional men’s suit, two buttons on the jacket have existed. This style of suit looks great on any guy, regardless of body type.
If you’re in the market for a suit or trying to decide which to wear, the two button variety is must have for a man’s formal wardrobe.
The two button fits in at both Sterling Cooper and your summer internship.
A word about shoes
Forrest Gump’s quote about shoes is as true as ever.
Gents, the slip-on dress shoe is dead. Invest in a nice pair of black or brown lace-ups. Remember, black goes with gray, black, and blue. Brown goes with everything but black.
While you’re at it, pick up a jar of shoeshine. It’ll set you back about five bucks and last for years. Shined shoes are essential to a romantic dinner or big fancy bash.
